Bandra, Mumbai’s gastronomic playground, has yet another contender vying for attention, and rarely one that ‘smoulders’ the way HOM does. But this isn’t just another pretty restaurant. Imagine modern Indian cuisine kissed by fire literally, served up from an open kitchen that doubles as dinner theatre. This new hotspot owes its approachable vibe to founder Pratik Gaba, who brings a nightlife pro pedigree to the table. Behind the bar, Pankaj Balachandran (bar consultant and founder Boilermaker, Goa ) and Beverage Manager Ashish Tamta craft cocktails that whisper decadence, not pretension. The kitchen, though, is where the real flames flicker, led by chef Saurabh Udinia, the man who’s already left an indelible mark at Singapore’s Revolver, this new 42-seater strikes a match between innovative fare and seriously slick design. You could sip cocktails out on the breezy veranda, which feels stolen straight out of a Mediterranean fantasy, or sit close to the fire and cheer on the team working their magic. Want a front row seat? The chef’s counter has seven. Lucky you.
Savour The Sizzle Show
From the moment I walked in, it felt like I’d wandered into an edible art gallery on fire, but in the best way possible. No candles or decorative flames here, it’s the real deal, roaring away from a custom-made grill like it’s auditioning for a Netflix cooking doc. The smell of smoke and spices hits you as soon as you step in, and suddenly, the mood dial turns up to hot. The setting makes it even better. Sitting at the chef’s counter, you’re practically ‘in’ the action, mesmerized by the flames and the stealth choreography of the kitchen team. And the room? Warm terracotta’s, maroon tiles, and soft lighting, it kind of feels like being wrapped in a chic hug. Even the tableware gets its own storyline, sourced from artisans in Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh to match the restaurant’s ‘grounded-meets-glam’ ethos. ‘We wanted to build something bold, raw, and alive,’ chef Saurabh Udinia explains as he flips a scallop on that glowing plancha, the sound of searing heat filling the room. And bold it certainly is. One bite into the crisp tender chaat and it’s a revelation: this isn’t fusion food, it’s a full blown reimagining of Indian flavours. But don’t get too comfy, moments later, juicy lamb arrives with a charred smokiness that’s impossible to replicate without flames. And between bites, you’re stealing glances at that grill, crafted by a workshop in Kerala that apparently also caters to some of India’s culinary heavyweights. Let’s just say, this isn’t your average tandoor situation.
Fire, Fun, Flavour Bombs
Dining here feels a bit like walking into someone’s wildly experimental, slightly irreverent laboratory, a place where flavours don’t just meet, they flirt, fight, and finally make up in spectacular harmony. Chef Udinia calls his 11-course tasting menu a ‘sine wave’ of flavours, and even though I initially couldn’t wrap my head around the metaphor (Physics, anyone?), one bite into the smoky, stuffed Kashmiri morel floating in a vegetarian nihari that tingles like a polite electric shock, and I got it. This isn’t a straight shot journey, it’s a rollercoaster where every dip and peak makes your tastebuds clap in delight.
The snapper, cooked patrani machhi style, wrapped in banana leaf and slathered in an absurdly fresh lemongrass-coriander chutney, feels almost illegal, it’s so bright and citrusy you’d swear it hasn’t met fire (spoiler: it has).
And then there’s a dahi bhalla unlike anything your grandma made, baked, lofty as a sponge cake, and topped with a whipped yogurt cloud, dusted like it’s about to walk the runway at Spice Fashion Week. The khichdi, lush with laal maas stock, could rival the creamiest risotto, while kulchas (thankfully no pale impostors here) are elevated with parmesan and a punchy spin on palak paneer.
Even the punugulu is cheeky, it bursts with prawn recheado and balsamic.
By dessert, I gave up analysing and just marvelled – carrot fudge, saffron espuma, and a quivering sheet of jelly.
Liquid Art, Bold Flavours
Coming to the drinks, it’s literally cocktail storm that’ll make even the most jaded drink snob sit up straighter in their barstool. Take ‘Ashes to Oolong’ a name that’s enough to distract you from how good it tastes. Johnnie Walker whisky meets hojicha (not oolong, clever), clarified passionfruit, pandan, lime, and yoghurt, all fizzed out with triple carbonation. It’s like a tropical daydream with a whisky backbone. Then there’s the espresso martini flipped on its shaken head, earthy beet and nutty sesame step in where a boring caffeine kick used to live. ‘Pap-arazzi’ is a spicy heartbreak in a glass, mezcal, pickled tomato, paprika, tequila, it’s Bloody Mary after a tequila retreat in Oaxaca. But the oddest delight? ‘Mango Bell.’ Yes, someone dared to spike mango and shimla mirch (bell pepper!) with mezcal, a whiff of coconut, and citrus, and you know what? It works. Like, really works. Add three no-booze options handled with just as much finesse, a wine list, plus gems like the ‘Pornstar Martini’ and ‘Batanga.’ If the kitchen hits as hard as the drinks, it’s the kind of spot where standing room or a barstool while you wait for a table feels more like a bonus than a problem. All in all, this is chaotic brilliance, like a dinner party you didn’t know you needed.
Also Read: The Top Trends Shaking Up the Cocktail World
Fact Box
Where?: HOM is at shop no 1, Zindagi chsl, Pali Road, 15th Road, Mumbai
When?: Dinner (Tuesday to Sunday): 7:00 PM to 1:00 AM
Lunch (Wednesday to Sunday): 12 PM to 4 PM
Call On: +91 9892776672
