I have lost count of the number of times I have visited Bangkok. The city hums with inimitable energy. Here, tuk-tuks zip past golden temples and the air is alive with the perfume of lemongrass, fish sauce, diesel, and incense. The relentless pace of the city is intoxicating, indeed. Yet, over the last few years I have started preferring the calmer, slower pace of the riverside in Bangkok. And this time around I immersed myself for three relaxing days in a luxurious oasis—Capella Bangkok.
Perched along the banks of the Chao Phraya River, the River of Kings, Capella exudes the calm of a sanctuary that manages to be both deeply rooted in the city’s history while catering to the smallest needs and desires of modern travellers. It epitomises quiet luxury in a way that is difficult to capture in words. At the end of three days, all I know is that I have never slept better in this city, never felt as rejuvenated while being in a city hotel and didn’t feel the need to step out of the premises. From the moment I enter, I feel as if the volume of the city has been turned down, replaced by a softer, slower rhythm that invites me to lean in, breathe deeper, and linger longer.
Bubbles Overlooking The River
The drive from the airport offers the usual sensory overload that Bangkok greets travellers with, but as soon as we turn into Charoenkrung Road, there seems to be a sense of tranquility. This was the city’s oldest paved street, its historic shophouses now interspersed with contemporary galleries and stylish cafés.
Upon entering the hotel, I am gently whisked into The Living Room where floor-to-ceiling windows frame the river like a moving painting. Check-in at Capella Bangkok is not a transaction across a desk, but a ritual. A glass of champagne in hand, a view of the river before me, and despite the luxury surrounding me I feel the warmth of a home that’s used to welcoming friends from all over the world.
Rooms Designed With Thoughtful Detail
Every one of Capella’s 101 rooms faces the Chao Phraya, and mine is no exception. So, when I enter my suite, it’s not the plush furnishings or the artful minimalism that catches my eye, it is the view! The river seems to be at an arm’s distance, flowing endlessly, its surface glinting with the lights of passing barges.
The suite itself is a study in understated elegance: pale woods, soft textiles, and trellis-inspired motifs that offer a nod to the historic shophouses of Charoenkrung. A spacious balcony beckons me outside, this is where I lounge on a day bed with a cup of coffee or a glass of wine, depending on the time of day, and watch the life of the river. Inside, the little touches make all the difference. A curated minibar that leans into local flavours, soft lighting that is bright enough, mirrors placed so thoughtfully that getting dressed is a delight rather than a frustration, and a free standing bath tub fitted with a cushioned head rest and rejuvenating bath salts.
While the suites are spectacular, there are seven villas that offer enhanced privacy, more space and proximity to the river. Each villa has a private garden, plunge pool, and direct river access, making it feel less like hotel accommodation and more like a private residence. You can even enjoy in-villa barbecues by the river.
Swimming Into The Night
Bangkok is a city that rarely sleeps, and at Capella, I discovered my own nocturnal indulgence: the 24-hour pool. That first evening, after a full day of luxuriating, I stepped into the cool pool well past midnight. I love the silence interspersed with the soft splashing sounds of water; that’s when I realise that I haven’t seen too many people within the hotel, even though I was informed that it was almost full to capacity due to a corporate event. And that’s the best part of this hotel—even as it rises discreetly from a stretch of manicured riverfront estate, it is designed in a way that there are many charming nooks and spaces so that you don’t come across the incessant chatter of other guests. As I float beneath the stars, the refreshing water keeps me centered in the present as the city glitters in the distance.
A Sense of Place
Capella’s location is its quiet superpower. Yannawa, the surrounding district, is dotted with temples and whispers of old Bangkok, while nearby Iconsiam provides ample modern indulgence with its designer boutiques and gourmet halls. But what charms me most is the lush greenery within the hotel. Even as I am reluctant to step out of this haven, there is one irresistible reason that tempts me, and with good reason. My personal Capella Culturist, available via WhatsApp, ready to orchestrate everything from a Muay Thai session at dawn to a private food crawl through hidden alleys, has understood exactly the kind of experience I would enjoy. One morning, I am guided through Charoenkrung’s lesser-known corners: a hidden shrine, a gallery tucked into a restored shophouse, a local auntie who still hand-rolls coconut candies. These aren’t your typical tourist attractions; they are living, breathing parts of the neighbourhood.
A Symphony of Flavours
If there’s one thing that I enjoy more than plush accommodation while travelling, it is the taste of local flavours. I am happy to report that Phra Nakhon, the Thai restaurant perched right on the river’s edge, offers an array of dishes that feel both familiar and revelatory. A green curry, fragrant with fresh herbs from the hotel’s own greenhouse, som tam that crackles with freshness, while river prawns are grilled to perfection. Since this is also the breakfast venue for in-house guests, I entirely skipped western fare and started each day with king coconut water, conjee, dim sum, pork broth and chicken krapao with jasmine rice. Eat local, they say, and I am totally living by it!
But there’s still more to explore. Côte by Mauro Colagreco is a sort of crown jewel for the hotel—it is overseen by the three-Michelin-starred Argentinian chef, and brings the Mediterranean Riviera to Bangkok with an effortless finesse. A fancy restaurant, this one beckons one visit during your stay. Follow this up with an evening at Stella, a moody dramatic cocktail bar where the dark toned interiors are enlivened with a stunning white stuffed peacock bang in the center. Enjoy live jazz as the cocktails take you on a journey through Siam, the perfect way to wind the day down.
Wellness and other special moments
Capella’s Auriga Spa is more than a place for massages; with seven treatment rooms and a vitality area, it is a sanctuary for transformation. I am glad that I try the traditional Tok Sen massage, an ancient technique involving rhythmic tapping with a wooden hammer and stick. At first, the sensation is unusual, but soon I feel tension dissolve from muscles. Beyond treatments, the wellness program includes daily classes—yoga at sunrise, Thai dessert workshops in the afternoon, even BogaFit sessions on floating mats in the pool. All these activities simply complement Capella’s ethos of holistic living.
Then there are the signature Capella Moments, offerings for guests who want to do a little more than just lie on the bed and gaze at the changing hues of the river and sky. During Cin Cin Hour, The Living Room becomes a space to mingle with other guests over cocktails and small bites—at sunset, I happily watch the sky melt into shades of orange and crimson over the river, and there’s a sense of conviviality that’s enlivened by clinking glasses.
By the end of my stay, I realise that what makes Capella Bangkok extraordinary is its ability to balance sophistication with soul. It is a hotel of grand design and impeccable service, yes, but it is also a place that feels deeply personal. And in a city as charmingly chaotic as Bangkok, that is the rare luxury. In a nutshell, it completely lives up to being the No. 1 hotel in the world, as listed by the World’s 50 Best Hotels 2024.
