Once upon a time, the brooch belonged to someone’s grandmother. It sat neatly on a tweed jacket, fastened a woollen stole, or guarded a silk sari pallu from slipping. It lived inside velvet boxes that smelled faintly of sandalwood and time. It was heirloom and sentimental, saved only for the most special occasions.
Today, in 2026, the brooch has moved beyond its decorative past to become a tool of authorship, a way for the wearer to assert identity and style. On runways, in magazines, and on the red carpet, it is no longer an accessory. It has a life of its own.
The Revival Of The Brooch
Brooches made a major comeback at the recently concluded Paris Haute Couture Week. Schiaparelli showcased iconic, artistic, and sculptural pins, while Boucheron and Pomellato presented high-jewellery, including shoulder brooches and intricate sets.
The red carpet followed suit. At the 2026 Golden Globes, Colman Domingo wore a brooch from Boucheron’s Histoire de Style collection with his tuxedo. Ryan Coogler chose a one of a kind piece from Marli New York. In recent months, Michael B. Jordan, Snoop Dogg, Orlando Bloom, Dwayne Johnson and Miley Cyrus have all worn brooches without making a spectacle of it.
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That is the shift. The brooch is no longer being treated like a novelty or a throwback. It is part of the outfit. A small decision that changes the tone of everything else.
The Last Truly Genderless Accessory
For decades, jewellery design followed the body’s architecture. Rings demanded fingers. Earrings required piercings. Necklaces followed necklines. Belts demanded hips. Each piece carried unspoken codes about who it belonged to. But the brooch did not need any anatomy, only fabric. It could land on a lapel, a shoulder, a waist, a turban. It answered to styling, not to gender.
In India, this fluidity is hardly new. Rajiv Arora, co-founder of the Amrapali Museum, reminds us that in the subcontinent the brooch was never trivial. ‘It was an essential signifier of rank and authority,’ he says. ‘For centuries, maharajas and nobility incorporated these ornate pieces into their attire to distinguish themselves within the courtly hierarchy. Most prominently, they were pinned onto turbans as the sarpech, or worn as a centrepiece of the sherwani to signal divine and temporal power.’
Over time, that same object softened its symbolism. It moved from the battlefield to the durbar, to runways and streets. In today’s context, the wearer of the brooch may have evolved but the power remains the same.
Rising Demand For Brooches
Tarang Arora, CEO and Creative head of Amrapali Jewels says he has, in fact, witnessed a sharp shift in demand. ‘We have seen a massive surge in multi functional jewellery,’ he says. ‘Clients no longer want pieces that sit in a box for most of the year. They want versatility.’ The numbers back him up. He explains, ‘This is evidenced by a 40% increase in men purchasing brooches to achieve a modern “Maharaja look” for weddings, as well as younger clients who are creatively pinning these pieces onto everything from denim jackets and more to using them as pendant conversions.’
Mamta Gupta, co-founder of Zariin Jewelry, notes that in response to growing demand, the brand has embraced evolving trends to create pieces that resonate with the modern wearer. ‘Through our design language, we’ve reimagined pearls in brooches, crafting clean, contemporary silhouettes that feel fresh and wearable. We’ve also adapted our signature charms into brooches, bringing symbolism into styling. Motifs like turtles, elephants, the tree of life, and the evil eye – taken from our classic charms – now feature in brooches, allowing wearers to express their personality, mood, or memories through the pieces they choose to pin.’
What Indian Designers Have To Say About The Brooch Revival
Indian couturiers have noticed it too! Brooches are quietly taking over as one of the biggest jewellery trends of the year. Varun Bahl, for one, says men are no longer reaching for a brooch because tradition demands it. ‘It’s no longer about wearing them only with ceremonial sherwanis, they’re being styled with bandhgalas, tailored jackets, achkans, and even structured suits. What I love is the shift towards restraint: a single brooch, often antique-inspired or handcrafted, placed slightly off-centre on the chest or near the collar.’ He adds, ‘Many men are choosing pieces that hold meaning; heirlooms, symbolic motifs, or something that reflects their personality. It feels less decorative and more expressive, almost like a signature.’
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But there’s a caveat for men experimenting with brooches, it’s easy to misstep. And Varun has some expert advice on how to get it right. ‘If the outfit already has heavy embroidery, texture, or print, adding a bold brooch only creates clutter. I also feel brooches shouldn’t be worn too centrally or stacked together, that instantly makes the look feel forced and theatrical. A brooch should look effortless, as if it naturally belongs there. When in doubt, keep it subtle or skip it entirely’, he shares.
Jatin Malik agrees that this revival is thoughtful rather than trend driven. He points to houses such as Chanel, Tory Burch and Schiaparelli bringing the brooch back into focus across runways and couture collections. ‘They are embracing sculptural pins, refined minimal forms and dramatic statements,’ he says.
He lays out the key dos and don’ts for styling a brooch.
How To Wear A Brooch: Styling Tips For The Modern Woman
Can be worn on the lapel of a blazer, coat, or dress to add timeless elegance
Can be used as a scarf fastener to transform a simple silk drape into a polished statement
Can be placed on the shoulder, waist, or hip of a dress to redefine and enhance the silhouette
Can be styled on handbags to introduce texture, detail, and personality
Can also be experimented with in hair styling – pinned onto head wraps or fashion hairpieces for a bold, contemporary look
How To Wear A Brooch: Styling Tips For The Modern Man
Pin it on a suit lapel to elevate tailoring with confidence and modern sophistication
Use in place of a tie pin or on a cravat for a refined, updated accent
Style on overcoats or pea coats to add character and depth to outerwear
Wear on hats or caps for a subtle yet distinctive style detail
Layer it on denim jackets, knitwear, or scarves to soften structured or rugged looks with an artistic edge
Mira Gulati, founder and principal designer at Mirari Jewels, sees the brooch as more than an accessory. ‘In 2026, a brooch isn’t just decoration,’ she explains. ‘It’s a way for a woman to express individuality with subtlety and impact.’
When it comes to styling, Mira Gulati’s approach echoes the sensibilities of designer Jatin Malik. She shares, ‘Brooches can also be styled on silk sarees or draped gowns to create a focal point that feels both modern and heirloom-inspired. Another emerging trend is layering and pairing multiple delicate pins together for a curated, artistic look. And beyond clothing, brooches are being styled on belts, bags or even as hair accents.’
A brooch can be old or new, flashy or simple, but it always finds a way to feel personal, feel more “you”. And that’s why, perhaps, it has become fashion’s most articulate accessory in 2026.
